Manufacture of shoes



my lg'? c. Vv. MANN 3,3233

MANUFAGTURE 0F SHOES Filed Nov. '7, 1965 3 Sheets-Sheet l May 30, 1967 c. W. MANN 3,32L33 MANUFACTURE oF SHOES Filed Nov. 7, 1965 3 Sheets-Sheet E INVENTOR. 5 pla/65 M MWA/f BY Maly 30, 1967 c. W. MANN 3,321,833

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Nov. 7, 1963 5 Sheets-Sheet FIGA United States Patent O 3,321,833 MANUFACTURE F SHGES Charles W. Mann, Framingham, Mass., assigner to Geneseo, luc., Nashville, Tenn., a corporation of Tennessee Filed Nov. 7, 1963, Ser. No. 322,122 5 Claims. (Cl. E53-6) This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, lasts, and patterns and parts for shoes, `and particul-arly concerns the grading of such, between sizes, so as to achieve the best t of the most feet with the minimum number of shoes in a tariff.

In the parlance of the shoe industry, and as used herein, the term tariff means a group or series of pairs of shoes, shoe-patterns, shoe-parts, or lasts, which are all alike except for variations in dimensions land sometimes except for color or type of leather. Thus, a given tariff does not necessarily include all possible variations in size, etc., but only those which a manufacturer or a merchant may deem necessa-ry to satisfy the demands of his trade.

As is well known, shoes conventionally are design-ated by size and by width Neither size nor width is indicative of a standard finite dimension. Size is indicative of overall length (stick length) and is measured from heel to toe on a foot or last. Width is indicative of ball girth, which .is the least measurable girth at the break on the outside of the foot or last. Each expresses only a relationship to the corresponding dimensions of a modeL Conventionally, the finite dimensions of shoes, lasts, patterns, or shoe parts, in a given tariff, vary (as the size or width changes) by increments added to or subtracted from the corresponding dimensions of a modeL The model may be of Vany selected length and ball girth, as it merely provides the base from which the dimensions of other members in a tariff of shoes, lasts, or the like, are developed.

The dimensional increments by which successive sizes or widths differ has become more or less standardized in the shoe manufacturing industry, although the finite dimensions have not, and that degree of standardization is hereinafter referred to as conventional- In the conventional practice, mens shoes are so varied that each progression in size involves the addition of an increment to the length of the model where the size is greater than the size of the model or the subtraction of an increment from the length of the model where the size is less than that of the model. There are in vogue two systems for accomplishing this variation. The most widely used system is called the arithmetic system, while the system used by the military is known `as the geomet-ric system.

According to the conventional arithmetic system; the sizes are indicated by numerals, i.e., whole numbers, with intervening half numbers. While in some quarters, the half numbers are considered to represent halfsizes, for the purpose of this disclosure, the term size ernbraces not only those conventionally designated by whole numbers, but those designated by half numbers, so that will be regarded -as much a size as will 6. In the conventional arithmetic system, if the model be indicated as size 7, then: size 7l/2 is one sixth of an inch longer than the model, size 8, one third of an inch longer than the model, etc., while size 6l/2 is a sixth of an inch shorter than the modeL etc. As the length of shoes increases or decreases above or below that of the modeL it is custom-ary to vary the ball girth by one eighth of an inch per size, that is to say, that if the model be designated size 7, width lthe arithmetic system) or 3% 3,321,833 Patented May 30, 1967 B: size 7l/z, width B, will have a ball girth one eighth of an inch greater than the model; and size 6l/2, width B, will have a ball girth one eighth of an inch less than the InodeL Likewise, as widths increase or decrease in a given size, it is customary to increase or decrease the ball girth by one quarter of an inch. For example, if the model be size 7, width B: size 7, width C, will be expected to have the same length as the model, but its ball girth will be a quarter of an inch greater than that of the model; while size 7, width A, will have a ball girth a quarter of `an inch less than the modeL Thus, in the conventional arithmetic system for a given tariff, as the size of the shoe increases without changing width, the ball girth nevertheless increases one-eighth inch for each one-sixth inch increase in length. This is in the ratio of three units increase in ball girth to each four units increase in length, `and such ratio, when expressed in percentage, is hereinafter termed the gradient, to wit: for the conventional arithmetic system, the gradient is According to the conventional geometric system, both the length and ball girth vary in the same proportion as the length of the shoe varies -above or below that of the model without changing width In practice, 3% was chosen as the arbitrary proportion in which to vary both length and ball girth between sizes without change of width This yields a gradient higher than 75%. For example, with a model h-aving a length of 11.28 inches and a ball girth of 9.32 inches: 3% of these values is, respectively, `0.3384 inch and 0.2796 inch, which is a gradient of 82.5%. To simplify the use of the geometric system, a scale has been provided which is graduated in points, no two of which are of the same length because each is 103% of the length of the next smaller. For example, the hundred points between 900 and 1000 points is approximately 2%4 inches, while the hundred points between 1100 and 1200 points is approximately 32%2 inches.

For shoes of various sizes developed from a given modeL the differential in the overall length (commonly termed stick length), as between sizes, is supposed to be, and usually is, uniform, either 1/6 of an inch (in (in the geometric system). However, this does not mean that shoes of the same stated size, but developed from different models, will necessarily have the same stick length. Toe styling is largely responsible for non-uniformity in stick length as between shoes developed from different models The Army has carried out an extensive program of measuring male feet, and the results thereof are published in a report entitled, Application of Foot Measurements to the Development 4of Last Systems. As a result of having measured some 6,500 pairs of adult male feet, it was determined that, insofar as concerns the fitting of shoes to feet, the two most important measurements are overall length and ball girth; and that the measured male feet widened with increasing length at a lesser` rate than do lasts graded on the conventional systems.

It is the object of the present invention, generally stated, to provide a tariff yof lasts, patterns and shoe parts from which the resultant shoes will better t the feet of most people, and, at the same time, reduce the number of shoes in a given tariff.

Accordingly, the invention involves the grading of lasts, patterns, shoes, and shoe parts, so that, as between successive sizes of the same width, the ball girth and the stick length vary in the ratio of about 54 (140%) increments of girth to each hundred increments of length, such increments each being additive as the size increases above that of the modeL and subtractive as the size decreases below that of the model.

The invention further contemplates increasing the iinite differential (between successive sizes) in length over that which has been conventional. This aspect of the invention is predicated upon the discovery, based in part upon analysis of the Army measurements, that when the lasts are graded as aforesaid, a higher incidence of satisfactory t and a substantial reduction in the number of members in a tariff will be achieved if the differential in length between successive sizes of shoes (from the same model) be increased from one-sixth inch to onequarter inch. Thus, in the arithmetic system, the ball girth increment of increase or decrease as between successive sizes of the same width, can remain at the conventional -one-eighth inch as previously practiced in the conventional arithmetic system, but nonetheless result in a gradient of 50%.

On the other hand, where `it is desirable to retain the conventional (one-sixth inch) increment of length as between sizes at the same width, the differential in ball girth (as between successive sizes in the same width) can be reduced to three thirty-seconds of an inch to produce a gradient of 56.6%.

While it is such a radical departure from custom that it introduces a complex problem of re-educating personnel, and hence may appear impractical, improved fitting with fewer shoes in the tariff can be achieved by staggering sizes in widths and widths7 in sizes This can be -accomplished simply by eliminating the `so-called halfsizes in alternate widths, and eliminating the so-called full sizes in the intervening widths in an arithmetic system in which the gradient is maintained at about 54 (110%) units of increase `or decrease in ball girth dimension to each one hundred units of increase or decrease in length.

In applying the principles of the invention to the geometric system of grad-ing, where measurements are taken in points and the finite length of each point is different from every other, I have discovered a simple way to maintain the gradient within the range aforesaid. In the normal range of mens shoe sizes, the stick length varies from about `1086 to about 1170 points. In spite of the fact that the finite length of a point near 1170 is about 125% of the finite length of a point near 1086, a gradient of between 50% and 59% can be maintained by adding or subtracting seven points in length, and ve points in ball girth between successive sizes; and this remains true for the various widths when 9 points are added or subtracted between widths of the same sizesf To clarify the foregoing, as well as that which follows, reference may be made to the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIGURE 1 is a view in side elevation of a typical last for mens shoes, and shows the locations at which the stick length and ball girth are measured;

FIGURE 2 is a correlative scale showing the relationship between points (in the geometrical system) and inches, within the parameters pertinent to the present disclosure;

FIGURE 3 is a graph showing the relationship between ball girth and length in two tariffs of =mens lasts graded, respectively, by the arithmetic and geometric systems in accordance with the present invention, and correlating them with the Army foot measurements hereinbefore mentioned; and

FIGURE 4 is a graph comparable to FIGURE 3, but showing the relationship between ball girth and length among a tariff of lasts graded in accordance with the present invention, and which involves the staggering of sizes in widths, and widths in sizes From an analysis of the individual measurements taken by the Army on 6500 adult male feet, I have ascertained that the quadrangle ABCD in FIGURE 3 delineates the dimensions of sixty-four percent of the feet measured. Within said quadrangle, there are sixteen lesser quadrangles, each labeled 4, and each of which embraces four percent of the feet measured. Outside the quadrangle ABCD, the open-ended areas labeled 2 each embrace two percent of the feet measured; and the corner areas labeled 1 each embrace one percent of the feet measured. The ball girth (plotted vertically) and length (plotted horizontally) of the average male foot is indicated by the intersection O of lines X-X and Y--Y.

In FIGURE 3, the intersections of the cross-bars of the thirty-five plus marks (-1-) represent the loci of the ball girth and length for a tariff of lasts graded by the geometric system, and which will serve more than ninety percent of adult m-ale feet; and the thirty-live dots represent the loci of the ball girth and length for another tariff of lasts graded by the arithmetic system, and which will likewise serve more than ninety percent of adult male feet. In each tariff, the gradient is approximately ftyfour units of ball girth to each hundred units of length. In other words, the two tariffs delineated, each of thirtyfive members, provide as good fitting qualities for as many feet as sixty or more members in a tariff as conventionally organized.

The geometric tariff indicated by the plus marks in FIGURE 3 utilizes increments: between successive sizes, of seven points in length and ve points in ball girth; and between successive widths in the same sizes, of nine points in ball girth, and zero points in length. The increments are additive as the size and/ or width increases above the model; and are subtractive as the `size and/ or width decreases below the model. In the geometric system, it will be remembered that no two points are of exactly the same magnitude, and hence the finite length of seven points is slightly greater in the larger sizes and less in the smaller sizes than in the medium ones, but within the parameters of dimension concerned 'with a given style of shoe, such differences are not sufficiently significant to warrant compensation or adjustment, especially when the model is chosen about the middle of the tariff, for example, that closest to the intersection of lines X-X and Y-Y in FIGURE 3. For example, among the mens sizes and widths plotted with plus marks on FIGURE 3, the model has a length of 1128 points and a ball girth of 1053 points; and the point values for the other members of the tariff are as shown in Table I:

The part of the tariff at which there is the greatest variety of nominal widths per nominal size is, in the parlance of the trade, termed the heart of the tariff, and is illustrated in the foregoing Table by the twentyve different ball girths within the stick length range of 1114 through 1142 points, which is less than one inch.

The arithmetic tariff indicated by the dots in FIGURE 3 utilizes increments: between successive sizes in the same width, of one-quarter inch in length and one-eighth inch in ball girth; and between successive widths in the same size, of one-quarter inch in ball girth and none in length, As before, the increments are additive above the model, and subtractive below the model. Again, the

model is preferably taken in the middle of the tariff, for instance, that nearest to the intersection O of lines X-X and Y-Y, whose dimensions are, for example, 11.54 inches in length and 9.19 inches in ball girth. The dimensions (in inches) of the other members of the illustrative In FIGIURE 4, the length increment between successive sizes of a same nominal width is 1/3 of an inch, while the ball girth increment is 3716 of an inch; and the ball girth increment between successive nominal widths in 5 the same sizes is '16 of an inchi.e., substantially greattariff are as shown in Table II: er than in the FIGURE 3 embodiment. There are but TABLE II Stick Length 1 10.79 I 11.04 11.29 i 11.54 11.79 l 12.04 12.29 12.54

8.4875 8.5625 8.6875 8.8125 8.9375 .5625 8.6875 8. 8125 8.9375 9. 0625 9.1875 9.8125 B511 Girth 8. 8125 8.9875 9.0625 9.1875 9.3125 9.4375 9.5625 9.6875 9.0625 9.1875 9.8125 9.4375 9.5625 9.6875 9.8125 9.9375 9.3125 9.4375 9.5625 9.6875 9.8125 9.9875 10. 0625 In the tariff illustrated in Table II, the heart embraces three widths in any given size, and alternate sizes stick lengths ranging from 11.04 inches through 12.04 have different nominal widths As in FIGURE 3, the inches, and there are thirteen different ball girths within several series of points aligned vertically represent differthat one inch range of stick length variation. 60 ent widths in the same size; and the several series of By comparison of Tables I and II, it will be found that points aligned more or less parallel with line X-X repthe arithmetic tariff provides, in the greatest width, one resent different sizes of the same nominal width rIo more larger size than does the geometri-c tariff; and that nitely illustrate the FIGURE 4 embodiment, the model the geometric tariff provides, in the second narrowest may be chosen to have a ball girth of 9.12 inches and a width, one more larger size than does the arithmetic sys- 65 length of 11.48 inches. Corresponding ydimensions (in tem. The reason for this is the same in both situations, inches) for other members of the tariff are shown inthe to wit: the elimination of members for which there will following Table III. be little or no need. `In the former instance, to have prio- TABLE III stick Length. 10.48 10.64 10.81 10.98 11.14 11.31 11.48 11.64 11.81 11.98 12.14 12.31 12.48

8.3125 8.5 8.6875 8.875 9.0625 8.4375 8.625 8.8125 9 9.1875 9.875 Ba Gire-- f site" ff-.. 55555 f ffii.- 55555" m5855111... '58155' -L 9 9.1875 9.375 9.5625 9.75 9.9875 10.125 9.5 9.6875 9.875 10.0625 vided the additional member would have thrown it into In the tariff illustrated in Table III, the heart embraces the area on the graph where it would serve but a fraction stick lengths ranging from 10.81 inches through 12.14 of one percent of the potential customers. In the latter inches, and includes twenty-four different ball girths (some instance, to have provided the additional member would of which appear more than once), but in any given inch have thrown it at the outer margin of an area on the of stick length range, -as between 10.81-11.81, 10.98-11.98, graph which serves only two percent of the potential or 11.14-12.14, there are respectively twenty, twenty-one customers, and which is occupied, as it is, by one member. and twenty different ball girths.

It should be made abundantly clear that the finite di- It is apparent from FIGURE 4 that, in that embodimensions for overall length, hereinbefore stated and ment, there are only sixteen members within, or bordering plotted in FIGURE 3, are by no means inflexible. In fact, on, the 64% area on the graph, whereas, in FIGURE 3, they are, to an extent, arbitrary with the stylist who dethere are twenty, and that twenty-six members of the pends to a considerable extent upon manipulating the toe tariff of FIGURE 4 accommodate almost as many feet of a shoe to accomplish his ldesideratum of appearance. as do all thirty-five member tariffs of FIGURE 3. Thus, Once a model is produced, however, the gradients and if a thirty-five member tariff be regarded as the desiderincrements herein disclosed can be applied thereto to deatum, the staggering concept of FIGURE 4 provides for velop the critical dimensions of the -other members of additional members wherever they are most needed (in the tariff. As stated hereinbefore, the model last (and any particular style) beyond the bourn of the 64% area hence the inside of a shoe made thereon) is preferably of y0n the graph. These fringe members are shown in FIG- a size and width near the middle of the tariff, with the URE 4 as the two two-member smallest sizes (at the dimensions adjusted by a reasonable fitting allowance left), the one four-member greatest width (at the top), for the average foot which is to say that the ball girth and the on@ in the Outside Corner at D of the last is less, but the stick length of the last is greater It is also apparent from FIGURE 4 that, comparable (by The lnguewanee), than the Same dlmenslbns 0f 60 with FIGURE 3, the gradient (between successive sizes the CofeSPOndmg Foot; in the seme widtn) is 55.2%, but, unlike FIGURE 3,

wpd@ any grad1ng-1nrements-that result m good t the reverse gradient between any given member and its llty to in fet .Wlthm tle dmals @ugh/tf ,to be next larger and wider, or its next smaller and narrower,

e may e .Se 1n acc. ance W1 FPfesen .mVen' neighbor is also 560111.54 (410%) percent, whieh latter tron, the ball girth grade 1s, as aforesard, 1n the ne1ghb0r- 65 d. d t bt .th th t .if f FIGURE 3 hood of 0.54 times the length grade between sizes. I-Iowcon mon 06S no .o n n W1 e an s .3 ever, the bau ginh and length grading increments uhm From` the foregoing dlsclosure, those skilled 1n the art tmd in Tables I and H for ments Shoes ,provide good should rcadlly understand that the rnventlon accomplrshes fittability with the practical minimum number of members its Oblects and p'bvldes 21 IlehOd O'f gradmg Shoes, lasts, in a tariff which includes the full range of widths in Patterns, and Shoe parte, whereby Improved tebllity iS an Sizesachieved with tariffs having a substantially reduced num- A further embodiment of the invention is plotted in bel 0f members than these heretofore P10Vded FIGURE 4. This embodiment introduces the concept of While, in the fefegeilg disdesufe, reference has been staggering widths in sizes and sizes in widths, made to finite dimensions, it is to be understood that such in addition to the gradient concept hereinbefore described. finite `dimensions are given only for the purpose of illustrating the invention, and may be varied to meet the exigencies of the occasion without departing from the spirit of the invention, provided the gradient of between 48.6% and 59.4% is maintained. Othenwise, it is contemplated that variations in the iinite dimensions Will occur in the normal course of `shoe designing Without departing from the spirit of the invention 4or the scope of the ap pended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed and `desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. The method of grading lasts for the manufacture of shoes, which comprises, providing a m-odel, grading from that model (a) a plurality of groups of different nominal widths,

the individual groups each consisting of a plurality of members all of the same nominal width, but differing from each other in length and in ball girth by increments of about 0.54 10%) units of ball girth to each whole unit of length, and grading from that model (b) a plurality of groups of di'erent lengths, the individual groups each consisting of a plurality of members all of the same length but differing from each other in nominal width and in ball girth, selecting the lengths `and Widths in the respective groups to provide a heart in which each member of an (a) group is in a (b) group and each member of a (b) group is in an (a) group; and coordinating the length increments by which the respective (b) groups diier from each other, with the ball girth increments by which the lmembers of the (a) group differ from each other to obtain at least thirteen different ball girths Within (a) groups Whose lengths differ by no more than one inch.

2. The method of claim 1 in which the grading is on the geometric system, and the gradient for the (a) groups is by increments of about ve points in ball girth to each seven points in length.

3. The method of claim 1 in which the grading is on the geometric system and the ball girth of a member of a (b) group diTers from that of its nearest neighbor in that (b) group by about nine points.

4. The method of claim 1 in which the grading is on the arithmetic system and the gradient for the (a.) groups is by increments of about 1/8 inch in ball girth to each '1A inch in length.

5. The method of claim 1 in which the grading is on the arithmetic system and the ball girth of a member of a (b) group differs from that of its nearest neighbor in that (b) group by about '1A inch.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,948,547 2/1934 Topham 12-146 2,514,518 7/1950 Ryan 12-146 2,570,510 10/1951 Biddle 12--146 LEONARD FORMAN, Primary Examiner.

W. D. MARTIN, Assistant Examiner. 

1. THE METHOD OF GRADING LASTS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES, WHICH COMPRISES, PROVIDING A MODEL, GRADING FROM THAT MODEL (A) A PLURALITY OF GROUPS OF DIFFERENT NOMINAL WIDTHS, THE INDIVIDUAL GROUPS EACH CONSISTING OF A PLURALITY OF MEMBERS ALL OF THE SAME NOMINAL WIDTH, BUT DIFFERING FROM EACH OTHER IN LENGHT AND IN BALL GIRTH BY INCREMENTS OF ABOUT 0.54 ($10%) UNITS OF BALL GIRTH TO EACH WHOLE UNIT OF LENGHT, AND GRADING FROM THAT MODEL (B) A PLURALITY OF GROUPS DIFFERENT LENGHTS, THE INDIVIDUAL GROUPS EACH CONSISTING OF A PLURALITY OF MEMBERS ALL OF THE SAME LENGHT BUT DIFFERING FROM EACH OTHER IN NOMINAL WIDTH AND IN BALL GIRTH, SELECTING THE LENGTHS AND WIDTHS IN THE RESPECTIVE GROUPS TO PROVIDE A HEART IN WHICH EACH MEMBER OF AN (A) GROUP IS IN A (B) GROUP AND EACH MEMBER OF A (B) GROUP IS IN AN (A) GROUP; AND COORDINATING THE LENGTH INCREMENTS BY WHICH THE RESPECTIVE (B) GROUPS DIFFER FROM EACH OTHER, WITH THE BALL GIRTH INCREMENTS BY WHICH THE MEMBERS OF THE (A) GROUP DIFFER FROM EACH OTHER TO OBTAIN AT LEAST THIRTEEN DIFFERENT BALL GIRTHS WITHIN (A) GROUPS WHOSE LENGTHS DIFFER BY NO MORE THAN ONE INCH. 